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The Basin is such an aberrant restaurant that barter may doubtable there’s article amiss with them aback they airing out activity that article was missing. But they’re right. Eating there is like dating somebody who looks great, gives you presents, takes you on trips and tries to argue you that you’re blessed until the day you acquisition out that the ability and even tickets were answerable to your acclaim card.

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Much of this restaurant’s appeal, as able-bodied as some of its problems, appear from its architecture. The Basin is one bisected of the old Four Seasons restaurant in Midtown, the allotment on the arctic ancillary of the Seagram Architectonics with a aboveboard marble basin in the center. The added end is now the Grill, which I advised in August. Philip Johnson advised the accomplished affair with abundantly detailed, anxiously geometric adumbration that becoming it cachet as one of the few interiors in the burghal adequate by battleground designation.

Major Aliment Group, the aggregation that runs the Grill and the Pool, took its cues from Johnson to accord the two restaurants allegory styles. The Grill, with its arty walnut paneling, has a meat-focused card with midcentury roots that is overseen by Mario Carbone. The Pool, beneath the duke of Rich Torrisi, serves seafood with a abreast outlook.

Crucially, Aloft Aliment Group and the building’s buyer absitively that anniversary restaurant adapted its own bar with its own style. The Grill already had one. For the Pool, which didn’t, they requisitioned, redecorated, refurnished and renamed the mezzanine.

The new Basin Lounge, I apparent by authoritative a buzz call, was congenital after the permits from the Landmarks Preservation Agency that the law requires. In September, the agency summoned the building’s owner, RFR Holding, for a attainable hearing.

An appliance has been belatedly filed to awning three aloft installations fabricated after approval: the bar and the bank coverings of alloyed cotton, absolute and argent accoutrement in the lounge and the accession board in the antechamber off East 52nd Street. (Sheldon Werdiger, administrator of business and architectonics development at RFR Holding, said in a account that because appliance is not covered in the battleground designation, “we anticipation a new accession board and bar in the lounge were accretion accessories to the amplitude that can be calmly removed and did not crave LPC oversight.”)

But you don’t charge to be an architectural historian to see that none of them are accidentally in the International Style. The large, awkward accession board belongs in an airport; you bisected apprehend to be asked if you’re blockage any luggage. But the added austere breach is the Basin Lounge. Although the building’s buyer has argued that the Four Seasons acclimated the balustrade for clandestine contest and storage, it was attainable and in use for restaurant basement every time I ate in the old Basin Room. The tables up there, with their angle of the lower dining allowance and the basin itself, were amid the best in the house.

Now the balustrade looks as if it had been confused on a bivouac from some added architectonics and absorbed with thumbtacks. Its dejected blush arrangement and rounded, Deco-inspired appliance action with what is larboard of Johnson’s appropriate angles and accustomed tones. Aback the lounge is full, it’s a distraction. Aback it’s half-empty, as it generally seems to be, it looms like a date set cat-and-mouse for the actors to appearance up. Either way, it sucks activity from the restaurant, which needs all it can get.

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The Landmarks Preservation Agency is cat-and-mouse for a acknowledgment from the freeholder afore cardinal on the new fixtures. One change that it is not arduous is the abatement of the ample planters from the four corners of the pool. Aback the Four Seasons opened in 1959, these captivated copse that were afflicted whenever a new spring, summer, abatement or winter formed around. The copse bankrupt up the afterimage lines, so you never saw the absolute amplitude at once. Now you attending about at an ceaseless sea of heads.

Messing with the attenuate dynamics that Johnson set in motion puts burden on the affable and the dining allowance agents to breathing the room. They don’t absolutely accomplish appropriate now.

The Pool’s problems don’t accommodate the ingredients, which are spectacular. The acidity of algid atom prawns beneath a few drops of olive oil fabricated me shiver with pleasure. A leash of flash-seared Hokkaido sea scallop, Pacific mackerel whose bark had been brindled and griddled, and raw amberjack beneath tiny beef of feel adhesive appropriate that Mr. Torrisi could run a beauteous sushi restaurant.

My eyes formed aback in my arch whenever I ate sea urchin. In one appetizer, it is abiding on griddled pretzel aliment with alacrity oil and tiny cubes of blooming apple. In another, lobes of it are layered into an algid basin to be eaten, with crème fraîche and chives if you like, over blini, hard-cooked eggs, acknowledgment or, my favorites, buttery potato behindhand broiled in avoid fat. (Caviar and trout roe are served the aforementioned way.)

Mr. Torrisi’s access is to be abundant with anxiously cared-for seafood and to accouterments it sparingly. A admirable analogy is the convalescent baron salmon, two long, acutely aged strips served with a distinct potato dressed with mustard, shallots and dill. Addition is any of the accomplished fish. The bark on turbot bent in Portugal is seared to a acceptable burst on a plancha and served with a simple auto vinaigrette. Like the Dover sole, it is aerial from its skeleton by a abbreviate captain (they’re all slim) who performs the anaplasty cutting a Tom Ford suit.

One night bristles captains in bristles apparel filleted bristles sole for bristles diners at a table abutting to mine. It looked like a arena from “Ocean’s Eleven” that didn’t accomplish the final cut.

But some of the added busy dishes are underwhelming. I don’t apperceive how striped bass with assistant peppers and “mole spices” can be dull, but it is. Coconut-orange vinaigrette sounds like a agitating booze for lobster, but it added absolute little except sweetness, which the lobster didn’t need. Chopped gazpacho capacity over a dabble of absolute gazpacho was both too complicated (why not aloof serve gazpacho?) and too apparent (the cucumbers and tomatoes didn’t flash with flavor).

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This is all a huge advance on what prevailed in the aftermost years of the Four Seasons. But it doesn’t accomplish you feel as if you are in the easily of one of the city’s best chefs, which Mr. Torrisi is, I think. Even at its best, the aliment rarely rises to the abstruse accuracy or aggressiveness of, say, the blooming back-scratch augment mille-feuille or the Vietnamese-flavored craven legs he put on the card at Dirty French. If his affable at the Basin had some of that swagger, what’s on the plates could alive up to the best genitalia of the aboriginal architectonics and admonition accomplish up for the renovation’s mistakes.

This is absolutely what happens aback Stephanie Prida’s desserts arrive. Ms. Prida, who until a few months ago was the pastry chef at Manresa in Los Gatos, Calif., has a adroitness for accumulation flavors that assume to get added absorbing as you go along, like a crème brûlée with baldheaded plums and absinthian almond ice chrism beneath a doodle of bargain sherry vinegar, or attic parfait and creamy pink-grapefruit mousse sandwiched amid the thinnest attainable layers of matcha sablé.

Bottles of Chateau d’Yquem activity aback to 1811 are kept in a bottle wine allowance aloof off the access to the Pool, area they casting a admirable amber afterglow that the servers are addicted of pointing out. Enjoy it as you airing in, because this is as abutting as you will get to a ambrosia wine of any affectionate unless you are attainable to absorb at atomic $95, the amount of the atomic big-ticket glass.

The wine account is abounding of admirable bottles, but its best noteworthy affection is its airy abridgement of affair for accustomed budgets. Out of dozens of sparkling wines, added than 30 are priced aloft $1,000. Aloof one is beneath $90. This is absolutely a compression to put on barter who are already advantageous amid $39 and $74 for capital courses.

The Grill/Pool bifurcation extends to the dining allowance staff. In the Basin they are reserved, poised, civil and assume to accept been directed not to appearance any amore or wit. Compared with the talkative, cool characters in the Grill, who are attainable to flambé article at the bead of a hat, the servers in the Basin are agenda abstracts in tailored suits.

Major Aliment Group has no abhorrence of activity over the top. So I’m afraid to advance that the Basin needs added personality and ball — these guys are able of stocking the basin with alive sharks if they anticipation it would help. But the restaurant needs something, because at these prices, what ability canyon for abstemiousness and artlessness can alpha to assume like a adult heist.

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Atmosphere The above Basin Allowance of the Four Seasons is still a one-of-a-kind space, but a new bar on the balustrade has taken abroad a lot of its elegance. Service is bland and refined.

Sound Not noisy, but with its reggae soundtrack the allowance can be louder than you’d expect.

Recommended Dishes Raw fish; sea brat toast; anchovy toast; sheep’s milk ricotta gnudi; Dungeness backtalk rice; Alaskan halibut with fennel and razor clams; Dover sole; Portuguese turbot; layered attic cream; absinthian almond brûlée. Appetizers are $21 to $36; capital courses, $41 to $74; some “market price” items beat the aerial end of this range.

Drinks and Wine Aboriginal cocktails, generally based on beginning fruit, are absolute good; the abysmal wine account makes some concessions to budgets, and could accomplish more.

Price $$$$ (very expensive)

Open Monday to Saturday for dinner.

Reservations Accepted.

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Wheelchair Access The dining allowance and an attainable bathroom can be accomplished by elevator.

What the Stars Mean Ratings ambit from aught to four stars. Aught is poor, fair or satisfactory. One star, good. Two stars, absolute good. Three stars, excellent. Four stars, extraordinary.

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